Why fine dining chefs are heading to the NSW South Coast

In short: 

It’s the second announcement this week heralding a significant chef’s relocation to the New South Wales South Coast. On Tuesday, Icebergs Dining Room and Bar Culinary Director Alex Prichard announced plans to step down and pursue his own restaurant in Berry.

Now, Cupitt’s Estate has revealed that it has enticed Ryan Smith (Ex-Banc, Restaurant Balzac) from Launceston to Ulladulla with the role of Executive Chef. Smith has worked extensively in fine dining kitchens around Australia, including at Sydney’s Banc and Restaurant Balzac, and recently The Sebel in Launceston. His resume also boasts time at London’s two Michelin-starred The Square, as Head Chef within the Bill Granger restaurant group, and events where he has cooked for the British Royal Family.

It’s not his first time working on the South Coast. In 2017, Smith joined Rick Stein at Bannisters in Mollymook as head chef. Since Stein gave Mollymook his tick of approval with the opening of his eponymous restaurant in 2009, the South Coast’s culinary attributes and raft of big name chefs has only grown. You need only look to nearby Milton, which has long attracted swathes of food lovers, with the likes of Hamon Shephard’s Nomah, Nat Taylor and Kitty Stidwill’s Milkhaus, and Ash and Kurt Bailey’s Bar Yuki

Further south in Merimbula, an influx of renowned chefs has led to a burgeoning food scene that rivals many of the nation’s regional towns. In 2015, Kirsty Pongratz opened Dulcie’s. Since then, Jamie Sverdrupsen (ex-Restaurant Hubert) launched Bar Monti and Tess Podger and Matt Johnston (ex- Madalena’s, Fremantle) opened waterfront cafe Sunny’s Kiosk. The likes of Bar Superette and Umi-Ko Izakaya have also joined the ranks, establishing the small oyster-loving town as a worthy stop on the state’s foodie map.

Consumer interest in the region’s restaurants also appears to be growing. Recent transaction data provided by Commbank shows that dining numbers on the South Coast increased by 15-16 per cent in January and February this year compared to the year prior. But while the appeal of the region is evident – crystal clear waters, abundant sea life, proximity to spectacular coastlines and impressive landscapes – it can prove challenging for hospitality. Both customers and staff tend to be seasonal; booming business in summer is often followed by a jarring quiet come autumn.

Smith doesn’t appear concerned. The chef believes that regional dining works when you embrace what’s around you. “For us, that’s the local seafood and produce and the people farming and growing it. The closer you can get ingredients to the plate, the better the result,” says Smith.

Libby Cupitt, Strategic Partnerships Manager at Cupitt’s and Director of Destination Sydney Surrounds South, says the South Coast dining scene has evolved significantly in recent years.

“We see Cupitt’s Estate as playing a key role in that continued growth. The regional food scene here is stronger than ever,” she said. “There’s great producers, passionate chefs and a real appreciation from diners for quality local food matched to great wine.”

Smith, who used to live opposite Cupitt’s, says returning to the region feels like coming home. His parents live locally, and he has strong local ties.

Cupitt’s Estate is located nestled in the rolling hills between Ulladulla and Milton at 58 Washburton Rd or 27 mins drive from Bawley Point.

Source: Hospitality Magazine